Basement Flooding Can Cause Big Boiler Problems

If floodwaters make contact with your boiler, furnace or water heater, you’ll want to have these appliances replaced. Even if the unit isn’t completely submerged, replacement is warranted because water, dirt and condensation associated with flooding can accumulate in valves, gauges and controls for these devices. In addition, exposure to water can promote or accelerate the accumulation of rust and compromise the integrity of the equipment.

Do not attempt to restart a boiler or furnace that has been flooded or even partially submerged. Instead, contact a licensed HVAC contractor for an inspection. The contractor can identify the components that must be replaced, or will advise you on a complete system replacement.

Here’s something else to think about: a “manmade flood” – such as what might happen when a pipe bursts or a hot water tank gives out – can also cause significant damage. Generally, a home water heater holds 40-50 gallons of water, and tanks are often situated near furnaces or boilers. That volume of water is not enough to completely flood the basement, but it may cause significant damage to a nearby furnace or boiler.

To avoid this kind of problem, have your water tank inspected periodically for signs of rust or aging. Maintain the sacrificial anode on your hot water tank by changing it out according to manufacturer recommendations and inspect the check valve on the tank regularly. If your hot water tank sits in close proximity to your furnace, consider having it moved to a location that offers better protection to your furnace or boiler.

As a final step, verify that your homeowners’ insurance covers both “dirty” and “clean” flooding. Dirty floods are those created by natural events like rainstorms and snowmelts, where water seeps or pours into the foundation from outside. Broken or open pipes and damaged hot water tanks cause most clean flooding. You may require special additional homeowners insurance to cover both hazards, and to ensure that your HVAC equipment is completely protected against this kind of loss.

As always, if you have any issues with flooding, or with your boiler, furnace or water heater, please give Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating a call at (617) 288-2911. We offer around-the-clock service and complete furnace and boiler service in Boston. Don’t forget to friend Boston Standard Plumbing on Facebook!

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Finding A Reputable Plumber

1. Do your homework. Look for plumbers, heating and cooling contractors, and general handyman services before you need them. You can use referral services like Angie’s List to find recommended Boston plumbers. Check references, verify the business’ standing with the Better Business Bureau and verify that any prospective contractors are licensed and insured. When the pressure is off, call for information about pricing, after-hours services, and regular maintenance services that you might be interested in.

2. Figure out what you’re most likely to need. You may have immediate needs for maintenance, replacement or repair on your major systems, or you may not know exactly what services you may need from plumbing, heating or cooling professionals. Once you’ve found a contractor you might want to work with, invite the contractor to your home for a system inspection. The contractor can give you a better idea of the age and condition of your plumbing, heating and cooling systems.

3. Shop around and ask questions about the contractor’s on-call services, hourly rates, dispatch times, staff credentials and more. When you call the contractor after hours, do you speak with the contractor or do you get routed to an answering service? Does the contractor offer any package services or service plans that can help reduce your costs, especially in an emergency?

The best approach is to make decisions about contractors when you have no immediate or urgent need for services. That way, you can take the time to review a contractor’s credentials, reviews from other customers, and ask friends and neighbors for their input. You can also take time to think about what you need (or might need) and make your choices accordingly.

Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating is a proud member of Angie’s List, and was voted the Best of Boston 2010 for heating and cooling services. We offer a wide range of plumbing, heating and cooling services in Boston. Call us at (617) 288-2911 for a consultation on all of your heating, cooling and plumbing needs. Friend Boston Standard Plumbing on Facebook and learn why we’re one of the best in Boston!

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PVC Outgassing: What's The Fuss?

Billions of pounds of PVC are made each year and home construction, repair and remodeling materials often contain PVC. A debate has arisen over the safety of PVC in homes, and that’s causing some people to rethink their use of PVC-containing materials.

A phenomenon known as “outgassing” is at the center of the concern over the use of PVC-containing materials. Outgassing refers to the release of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) from products that contain PVC. VOCs can be released from the PVC into the air or water and have been implicated in “sick building syndrome,” and other indoor air quality issues. Further, VOCs can be found in water that’s been carried through PVC pipe.

When heating is involved, the use of PVC requires some special considerations. High efficiency furnaces are designed to vent directly to the outdoors. They also take in fresh air from outside the home, rather than recirculating semi-heated air already inside. PVC is used in heating applications mainly because it’s inexpensive. It’s also able to stand up to the stress of repeated heating-cooling cycles.

The furnace exhaust, which contains the noxious by-products of combustion, is hot. (After all, it’s just come out of the furnace, right?) Heat tends to accelerate the release of VOCs, so when PVC is used as part of the furnace exhaust system, the amount of VOCs released into the outside air (and the inside air around the exhaust pipe) tend to increase.

Some homeowners who are concerned about PVC outgassing and its long-term health effects have begun looking for alternatives to PVC for their furnace exhaust ports. When a substitute for PVC is sought, we generally recommend stainless steel. Stainless steel is certainly more expensive than PVC but it’s inert so it won’t interact with the environment around it. It also tolerates the repeated heating-cooling cycles and moisture from the outside air (and dampness in basements) very well. Since stainless steel is durable, it will also generally last the lifetime of the furnace.

If you have a high-efficiency furnace and are concerned about PVC outgassing, or would like to look at alternatives to PVC for other applications (like plumbing), please give us a call at Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating at (617) 288-2911 for a consultation. We’ll be happy to suggest alternative plumbing, heating and cooling materials.

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Silt And Sediment Can Cause Plumbing Problems

Larger silt and sediment particles can collect in hot water tanks and the faucet filters on most sink fixtures in a home. It can also collect in the valves on washing machines, dishwashers and other appliances. If you have a whole-house water filter, you may find that your filter becomes clogged more quickly than normal following water main repair or replacement. Other “events” like the opening of a fire hydrant, can also dislodge silt and sediment, sending it into fresh water supply pipes.

To ensure that your faucets are running free and clear, periodically remove the faucet filter and clear out any sediment, debris or mineralization that may have become trapped or built up in the filter. Doing this regularly will improve the flow of water through your faucet and will help prevent leaks and longer term damage to the fixture. Regular maintenance on your hot water tank should also help keep sediment build-up down.

If BWSC replaces or repairs a water main in your area, or if a nearby fire hydrant is opened, purge your pipes by opening an unfiltered cold water tap, such as a bathtub or wash tub. Let the water flow freely for several minutes to help flush out any sediment that might otherwise make its way to a filtered fixture. After you’ve purged your water line, check the filtered fixtures about once per week to remove any residual silt or sediment particles. Do this weekly until you no longer find sediment in your filters. Then check your filters monthly to remove any stray materials. Keep in mind that water main work or the use of a fire hydrant can increase sedimentation in the fresh water supply for weeks or months afterward.

If you notice a high degree of sedimentation in your fresh water supply even if no water main work has been done recently, you may have a problem with the deterioration of your supply pipes. Copper and PVC don’t deteriorate like other materials do, but galvanized and cast iron supply pipes can produce a lot of sediment when the pipe begins to fail.

Galvanized or iron pipe could be a dull silver, rust or black color. The sediment particles are most likely rust. While they’re not harmful, they’re not very appetizing, and they can also discolor the water, and stain sink fixtures, toilets and clothing in the washing machine.

If you have a problem with sedimentation build-up in your faucet fixtures, or rust staining in your sinks, toilets or laundry appliances, please call us at Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating at (617) 288-2911. We’ll evaluate the status of your galvanized plumbing and make a recommendation.

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Test The Pressure Relief Valve On Your Water Heater

As part of your annual water heater maintenance routine, you can also test the pressure relief valve on your water heater. The pressure relief valve is a safety device that prevents the dangerous buildup of pressure in a hot water tank. If the pressure increases significantly in the tank, the relief valve is designed to let water (and pressure) escape safely. The pressure relief valve will be on or near the top of the tank and will operate in a closed position.

The pressure relief valve has a hinged handle or stem that normally sits in a flush position against the valve cover. To test the valve, lift the handle upward (or outward) to a 90° position and allow a little water to escape. The water in the tank will be pressurized and hot, so make sure everyone (and everything) is clear of the valve before you open it.

If your pressure valve normally leaks a little water, or shows signs of leaking when the valve is closed, this could indicate a problem with pressure build-up in your hot water tank. If the valve shows signs of mineralization or cannot be opened for testing or does not close properly after testing, this could indicate that the pressure-relief valve is malfunctioning. In either case, you should consult with a licensed plumber to determine the nature of the problem.

A plumber can correct either an over-pressure situation or a bad valve easily, but since the pressure relief valve is a safety device, any problems should be corrected immediately to keep your home, family and plumbing system safe! If you have a problem with the pressure relief valve on your water heater, give us a call at Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating at (617) 288-2911 anytime. We’ll be happy to examine your system for problems and make repairs if needed.

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How To Drain Your Water Heater

To help keep your hot water tank operating properly, make a maintenance plan that includes draining the tank annually. This will discourage the build-up of sediment in the tank and will help extend the tank’s life. To drain the tank, you’ll need a standard garden hose and a safe place to put 40 gallons or more of hot water.

If your water heater is electric, cut the power to the tank at the breaker box before you do anything else. If your tank uses natural gas, turn the temperature control to the “pilot” setting, or to “off” depending upon how the control is marked.

Once the power/fuel is cut, attach the hose to the tank’s drain valve. The drain valve looks like a hose spigot, may be made of plastic or metal, and is threaded to accept a standard garden hose. Don’t open the drain valve yet – just get the hose attached to the valve.

Run the hose to a working floor drain, sump well or to the outside, if the tank is on the first floor of your home. Remember, the water that drains from the tank will be hot, so be sure to dispose of it safely!

Turn off the cold water supply to the tank, and open a hot water tap on one of your faucets. This will allow air to enter the tank and push the water out through the drain. Finally, open the drain valve on your hot water tank. Monitor the tank as it drains to prevent accidental flooding and to verify that the tank is draining.
When the tank is drained, open the cold water supply and begin refilling the tank. Don’t close the drain valve; the goal here is to flush any accumulated sediment out of the bottom of the tank.

When the water runs clear from the drain hose, close the open hot water tap and the drain valve. Allow the tank to refill. Once the tank is refilled, reapply power or re-ignite the gas and allow the tank to begin heating again.

Next week, I’ll discuss the pressure relief valve on your hot water heater, and show you how to test the valve for proper operation. In the mean time, if you have trouble with your water heater, or would like Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating to perform maintenance on it, please give us a call anytime at (617) 288-2911.

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Insulating Pipes Can Save You Money

In terms of energy efficiency, a significant portion – as much as 30% – of energy loss occurs in pipe and duct runs. The amount of loss is proportional to the length of the run. To combat energy loss, add specially formed pipe insulation, which can be found at your local home improvement or hardware store. Pipe insulation is pre-formed and should have an R-rating of 3 or more. Using better insulation is especially important if your pipes reside in or near your home’s exterior walls.

You can also use regular fiberglass “batt” insulation (with an R-value of 7 or higher) to wrap around pipes, but you’ll need to use protective equipment for your hands, face, clothing and eyes if you go this route. The preformed pipe insulation is the preferred solution if you have a choice.

To apply pre-formed insulation, simply open the insulation tube along the pre-cut split that runs the length of the tube and wrap it around the pipe, like a cuff. You’ll need to break the insulation around joints and valves. If you’re using the batt type insulation, you’ll need to cut the insulation to length, wrap the pipe and secure the insulation with tape or some other binding.

Any pipe – hot or cold – that runs in or near an exterior wall should be insulated. This includes any pipes that feed outdoor spigots and sprinkler systems. After those pipes are done, the next prime candidates are your hot water pipes. You can reduce energy consumption by insulating these, but you can also realize other benefits by insulating your cold water pipes, too.

When there is a significant difference in temperature between the cold water in the pipe and the surrounding air temperature, your cold water pipes will act like a condenser; it will naturally remove moisture from the air. This phenomenon is known as “sweating” and may cause your cold water pipes to drip this condensed moisture along the horizontal runs.

By insulating your cold water pipes, you can control the condensing action, and keep the standing water in the pipe colder – and more refreshing on a hot day!
If you need plumbing, heating or cooling assistance in your home, call Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating anytime at (617) 288-2911. We provide licensed plumbers and high quality service around the clock!

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Will A Tankless Water Heater Fit In Your Boston Home? (Part 3)

Tankless hot water systems are more efficient than conventional hot water heaters. American homeowners could aggregately reduce carbon emissions by more than 90 million tons annually, just by using tankless hot water systems. If reducing your carbon footprint is important to you, and the cost of a hot water system is the same over 15 years whether you go tank or tankless, this might be enough of an incentive to make the switch.

Tankless hot water systems take up less space in your home. If your basement or utility space is already crowded, a tankless system may help you reclaim some valuable real estate. In the process, you may be able to reduce the risk of water damage to nearby personal property if a water tank fails. Most homeowners insurance doesn’t cover “clean water” damage – that is, damage that’s caused by plumbing failures in the home. A tankless hot water system eliminates the danger of having a 40- 50-gallon instant spill.

Hot water tanks can’t be recycled effectively, so they tend to end up in landfills. By reducing the number of tanks that are discarded each year, Americans could significantly reduce the amount of landfill space required to dispose of their trash. Like reducing your carbon footprint, if reducing your waste stream is important, going tankless may help you do your part.

No matter what you decide, Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating can help. We do hot water heating system installations of all kinds, and we’re always ready to help. Whether you need emergency assistance, routine maintenance or a new installation, call us at (617) 288-2911 anytime!

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Will A Tankless Water Heater Fit In Your Boston Home? (Part 2)

The second question most homeowners have about tankless water heaters relates to the system’s efficiency. Tankless water heaters take the prize in this category; the most efficient conventional hot water heaters operate at about 60% efficiency. Tankless systems have an efficiency rating of about 80%. The story goes deeper than ratings, though. A hot water tank will lose efficiency over time because sediment, minerals, and deterioration by-products from the sacrificial anode all work to reduce the efficiency of a hot water tank. Tankless systems maintain their efficiency over time because they’re not subject to these problems.

You can save money on operational costs with a tankless water heater because you only pay for hot water when you need it, as opposed to keeping water on “hot standby.” Generally, a tankless hot water system will save between 30% and 60% over conventional hot water system operating costs. That savings may not be enough to justify the added expense of the system.

Exactly how much savings are we talking about? Your costs to operate a conventional hot water heating system will depend, of course, on how big your tank is and where you live. A good estimate for natural gas-powered 40-gallon tanks is about $350 per year. If you use propane, your 40-gallon hot water tank may take $500 out of your pocketbook annually. In comparison, a tankless hot water system that uses natural gas may cost $250-$300 to operate, meaning that you could save $50-$100 per year as long as your hot water usage doesn’t change much.

If a conventional 40- or 50-gallon tank system costs $1,000 to install and $350 per year to operate for 15 years (and you had to replace the tank once during that time), your total out of pocket expense would be $7,250. In comparison, if you spent $3,500 on a tankless hot water system with an annual operational cost of $250, your total out of pocket expense for the tankless hot water system would be (ta da!) $7,250… exactly the same.

If you’re looking to replace a larger tank – a 75-gallon model – the installed cost may be more like $1,500. If you need to replace the tank once during our theoretical 15-year period, you’ll spend $3,000 on the hardware and another $6,000 on operational costs. Your total out of pocket expense would be $9,000. If you installed a high-volume tankless system for $5,000, you’ll spend an added $3,750 on operational costs. Your total out-of-pocket expense would be $8,750 – a savings of $250 over the conventional option.

At this rate, you can see why your savings may not justify the added initial cost of the system if you don’t need a heavy-duty hot water system.

Next week, I’ll close out this series on tankless water heaters. Boston homeowners may find reasons other than cost to go tankless after all! In the mean time, if you have questions about water heating, or a problem with your water heater, contact us at Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating at (617) 288-2911. We offer 24-hour emergency service for all plumbing, heating and cooling needs.

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Will A Tankless Water Heater Fit In Your Boston Home? (Part 1)

The first question most homeowners have about tankless systems is the cost. A tankless system does cost more than a conventional hot water heater, but the tradeoff is that the system lasts longer. A conventional residential hot water heating system will last between 6 and 12 years. Tankless hot water systems last about twice as long. Even so, the up-front cost of a tankless water heating system may leave you with a case of sticker shock! Generally, the system (with installation) will run between about $2,000 and $5,000, depending upon the system you choose.

If you have natural gas or propane in your home already, you’re in good shape for a tankless water heating system. If you need to bring gas or propane in, you’ll need to factor this additional cost into your calculations.

You can find electric tankless water heating systems. They’re generally less expensive to purchase and install, and their efficiency is higher, too. The problem is one of cost. Natural gas costs less per BTU than electricity does. In areas where both energy sources are readily available, you’ll spend 10%-15% less on a gas-fired tankless water system.

Here’s another consideration for electric tankless water systems; your house will likely require a 200-amp, 220V electrical service. Some electric tankless systems operate on smaller services, but you may incur additional expense if you have to upgrade your household electrical system to accommodate a tankless electric water heater.

With a conventional system, you’ll pay your equipment costs over time, in the form of tank replacement and tank maintenance, whereas with a tankless system, you’ll pay all system costs up front. The big question for most homeowners is (and will continue to be): “Can I recover the cost of the system?” Depending upon your hot water usage, you may not be able to recover the cost through normal operation, but your house may command a better price on the market if you have a tankless system installed.

Don’t fall for the myth that the tankless hot water system provides an infinite supply of hot water. Depending upon the size of the system you buy, a tankless system may be able to handle 1-2 showers simultaneously or a combination of a shower and a hot-water appliance, like a dishwasher or washing machine. Also, don’t plan on having “instant” hot water. The system will still require a little time to heat the water and deliver it to your tap.

Finally, if you use a significant amount of hot water (in other words, you have a 60-80 gallon tank), you may come out ahead on a tankless water heating system. I’ll show you why next week. If you get by just fine with a 40- or 50-gallon tank, I’ll show you why going the tankless route may come down to a coin toss.

If you have questions about water heaters, Boston Standard Plumbing has the answers. We offer 24-hour emergency service for all plumbing, heating and cooling systems. Contact us at (617) 288-2911.

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