In-Register Products May Help With Zone Climate Control

Even when you adjust the dampers to accommodate awkward system design, you may end up with cold- and hot-spots in your heating and cooling system. This has less to do with the equipment you use and more to do with the design of the heating and cooling system in the home. Often, big errors (like a single heating and cooling zone for an entire house), can’t be corrected with manual damper adjustments alone. The result is that areas of the house are chronically too hot or too cold to be comfortable.

A new line of in-register devices may allow your home heating and cooling systems to deliver a more consistent comfort level throughout your home, and reduce your energy consumption at the same time. Wireless, battery-controlled in-register dampers can automatically open and close the registers and prevent air leakage to achieve a pre-programmed comfort level. These devices can automatically restrict airflow in areas of the home that are too hot or too cold, and direct more heated/cooled air to areas of the home where additional airflow is needed to achieve your preferred comfort level.

In most homes, between 20%-40% of the rooms are either much warmer or much colder than the thermostat’s set point. This means that you use more energy you need to, and spend fruitless time trying to balance out the airflow in your living space. It also means that you may be heating or cooling areas of your home that you don’t use regularly or that don’t need precise heating and cooling to keep you comfortable.

In-register systems contain a thermostat control unit and electronically controlled register covers that open and close based on the way the thermostat control is programmed. Generally, no modifications are needed for existing ductwork, and no additional wiring is needed to make the system work. The thermostat control unit can control registers within a 20-ft radius, and the register covers are paintable, so you can match them to your existing décor.

These systems offer the benefit of more precise comfort control and a reduction in energy usage. On average, homeowners can expect to reduce their energy consumption by as much as 5% per room when they use electronic dampers to control airflow in their homes.

If you would like more information about in-register dampers and to learn whether this approach may solve your home’s uneven climate control issues, please give us a call at Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating at (617) 288-2911 anytime. We’ll be happy to schedule a consultation! Don’t forget to like Boston Standard Plumbing on Facebook!

Photo Credit : Activent

Political Agreements Mean Changes For Home Air Conditioners

R-22 falls into a class of refrigerants that has been identified as harmful to the Earth’s ozone layer. The largest known “hole” in the Earth’s ozone layer is concentrated over Antarctica. Certain chemicals, known as halogenated hydrocarbons, deplete the ozone layer and decrease the protection the Earth’s atmosphere offers against solar radiation.

In 1987, many countries began to sign on to a global treaty called the “Montreal Protocol On Substances That Deplete The Ozone Layer,” referred to in short as “the Montreal Protocol.” This treaty aims to phase out the use of chlorofluorocarbons (CFC) and hydrochlorofluorcarbons (HCFC), to prevent harmful substances from entering the ozone layer. R-22 is considered a HCFC.

As of 2010, manufacturers may not ship new air conditioning units that are charged with new R-22 refrigerant. New R-22 is still available as a recharge refrigerant for existing units. Manufacturers are skirting this portion of the agreement by shipping “dry-charged” units, or units filled with nitrogen instead of R-22. Once the unit is installed, the installer “re-charges” the unit with new R-22. By 2020, however, even recharging with R-22 will be limited to the use of recycled or reclaimed R-22, and no new R-22 will be manufactured anywhere.

So, what is the current alternative to R-22? A refrigerant known as R-410a is currently used as a substitute for R-22. R-410a works at a higher pressure than R-22 does, and it isn’t possible to use R-410a as a direct substitute for R-22. In other words, if your air conditioner was designed to work with R-22, you can’t simply recharge the unit with R-410a instead.

R-410a is also classified as a HCFC, but unlike R-22, it doesn’t have the same ozone-depleting consequences that R-22 does. Unfortunately, R-410a does contribute to global warming, so the plan is to eliminate R-410a from use with other HCFCs, according to the timetable established by the Montreal Protocol.
Consumers should be aware that air conditioners have become a lot more efficient in the last 10 years. Replacing an older air conditioner that is still in good working condition might make economic sense when the replacement unit is significantly more efficient than the existing one. Consumers will need to factor in the cost of recharging (which will become significantly more expensive as R-22 supplies decline) an existing air conditioner when considering possible replacement. Additionally, it will become harder to replace older, R-22 units over time as more manufacturers adopt R-410a designs.

Fortunately for consumers, R-410a performs about as well as R-22 does in most circumstances, including those typically encountered in Boston. In any case, consumers should work only with certified technicians when it comes to recharging air conditioner units and recovering R-22 refrigerant.

If you would like more information about air conditioners, air conditioner maintenance, recommendations, or you would like to have your own air conditioning system cleaned and prepared for use this season, give Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating a call at (617) 288-2911, and we’ll schedule an appointment. Don’t forget to like Boston Standard Plumbing on Facebook!

Photo Credit: NASA Goddard Photo and Video, via Flickr

Cleaning Your Air Conditioner's Evaporator Coil

The inside maintenance on your air conditioner is just as important as the outside maintenance. Keeping your evaporator clean and free of corrosion will ensure that your unit operates efficiently year round. It will also allow you to spot potential problems before they lead to a major repair.

The inside unit is the evaporator, and it will be located near your furnace (if you have a furnace) or in your air handler if you have a heat pump. For this post, I’m going to assume that the evaporator sits on/near a furnace, but the steps for cleaning the evaporator are the same if you have an air handler instead.

Access your evaporator coil by opening the metal case that encloses it. The coil is often designed as an “A-frame” device, which means it has two panels that appear to lean toward each other (like the letter “A”). The evaporator panels will have thin metal fins on the outside and a series of copper tubes on the ends of the unit. The entire set-up will rest on a plastic (or metal) frame of channels that catch water and shunt it to the drain. The bottom of the evaporator is open to allow air to circulate from the blower motor of your furnace. Check the plastic frame for cracks, or if your unit has metal channels, check them for corrosion or rust. If a channel is cracked or rusted through, you’ll need to replace it to avoid damaging the rest of the furnace.

The evaporator’s job is to remove water from the air. On a very hot, humid day, your evaporator might eliminate several gallons of water from the air in your home, so it’s important to keep the condensate drain free-flowing at all times. Even though you’re condensing out “clean” water, biological matter can accumulate in the drain tube for your system and cause a backup. If your air conditioner is pulling gallons of water out of your home’s air and the tube that leads to your floor drain is clogged, you’ll find very quickly that you have drain problem AND a big mess to clean up!

Before you do anything on the evaporator, make sure the condensate drain is clear and free-flowing by running a little water in the catch basins at the bottom of your evaporator unit. If the water you add doesn’t flow freely to the drain, you can use a little Bio-Clean to clear out any accumulated biological debris in the drain. You can also use a solution of bleach and water to clear out any biologically active organisms in the drain.

Once you know the drain is fully open, examine the evaporator coils. If they’ve never been cleaned, or haven’t been cleaned recently, they’ll be coated with dust and other “inside” debris, like pet hair and cobwebs. You’ll need to make a decision about how well you can manually clean debris from the unit using the access you have. If you can’t get the fins clean without damaging them or the debris is crusted on, you may want to have a professional perform the inside maintenance. A badly clogged evaporator may need to be removed for cleaning, and that’s outside the realm of a do-it-yourself task.

You can find spray-on condenser coil cleaner at your hardware store or a home-improvement store. Usually, these cleaners are foaming and will break down debris and any greenish deposits that accumulate on the copper without needing a rinse. Spray the cleaner on the copper tubing and on the fins of the evaporator. The foaming cleaner will clean debris, return to a liquid state, and drain into the condenser pan on its own. You can use this when the air conditioner is running to get a little “rinse” from the water the evaporator is removing from the air. The cleaner takes just a few minutes to work, and you should be good to go, once you close the unit back up.

Change the air filter as long as you have the unit open. Just as in the heating season, you’ll want to change your furnace filter monthly to ensure that your system isn’t working harder than it has to. If you have questions about cleaning your evaporator unit, or you would like professional assistance, contact us at Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating at (617) 288-2911 to schedule an appointment. Also, you can “like” Boston Standard Plumbing on Facebook anytime!

Photo Credit: Velo Steve, via Flickr

Regular Air Conditioner Maintenance Is A Must

Don’t skip this step, even if it seems complicated. That’s because a central air conditioning unit can lose 5%-10% of its rated efficiency each year that regular maintenance isn’t performed. Within a couple of years, the high-efficiency air conditioner you paid a premium will provide lower performance than a well-maintained moderately efficient air conditioner!

Keeping your system clean is one of the primary ways in which you preserve the unit’s efficiency. Cleaning the unit means cleaning the condenser, which is outside, and the evaporator coils, which are inside your home. Neither of these tasks are difficult, and they’re certainly within reach of the DIY’er, but they do take a little time and effort, and you’ll need to have a good understanding of your heating and cooling equipment.

The outside condenser unit is covered with a metal case, which can be removed easily for cleaning. Before you remove the cover, you’ll want to cut the electricity to the unit at the circuit breaker. Once the unit is safely powered down, you’ll want to make sure that all organic debris (i.e., dead leaves, sticks, old grass clippings, nests, seeds, etc.) that may have found their way into the condenser unit are cleared away. This is also a good time to remove grass, weeds and other growth from the condenser unit to prevent this kind of material from entering the condenser unit later this season.

This is also a good place to point out that you may need to clean your condenser several times during the summer season. If you live near cottonwood trees, for example, they “seed” in June. Their cottony seeds float through the air like snow and will get sucked into your condenser. Any debris – including lawn clippings, petals from flowering trees, seeds and seed coats from landscaping – can clog your condenser and reduce its efficiency. Check the condenser regularly during the cooling season for debris. This will help keep your unit working at peak efficiency and can prevent premature failure for some components.

This unit is built for outdoor use, so you can use a hose and running water to clear out the condenser unit and the coils. Take special care to avoid damaging the “fins” or any delicate metal tubing you see in this unit. Make sure the drip pan (at the very bottom of the unit) is free from debris that can trap moisture and promote rust and other corrosion.

After you have the condenser unit clean, you can oil the unit if your unit requires it. Many units are self-lubricating or are sealed, so no additional lubrication is required. If your fan motor has oil ports, however, you’ll want to ensure that your unit is lubricated at least seasonally. You can do this by adding about 5 drops of oil to the oil port. Don’t use penetrating oil and don’t use an “all-purpose” oil. Instead, use the oil recommended by your manufacturer, or you can find lubricating oil for electric motors at your local hardware store.

Again, if the compressor motor requires lubrication, add a few drops through the oil port. (Check your owner’s manual if you’re not sure where the port is located, or if you need to lubricate your compressor motor.) Do not over-lubricate your unit.

If your compressor is belt-driven, inspect the belt for wear, glazing, cracking and signs of overheating. Also check under the motor for evidence of oil leaks. (Old oil will be dark and may pool under the compressor motor or at a connection point, or you may find evidence of oil spray buildup on the motor case.)

If you find evidence of a leak, chances are good that you’ll need to replace the motor. Unless you find a connection that is obviously loose, don’t attempt to tighten connections where you suspect an oil leak. Over-tightening can cause more damage to your unit and isn’t likely to solve your problem.

Check for coolant problems to the extent you are able. To do this, you’ll need to power on the unit. Adjust the inside thermostat so that the unit runs for about 5-10 minutes. Carefully move the insulation on the copper pipe that leads to the inside unit to expose the metal. The metal pipe should be cool (but not super-cold) to the touch. If the temperature of this pipe isn’t cool, call a professional to check the coolant level in your unit. Your unit may need to be recharged.

One more note on compressors: they’re not designed to work in cold temperatures, so reserve your unit maintenance until the outside temperature is in the 60°F-65°F degree range.

After you’ve checked for evidence of proper cooling, shut the unit back down and return the cover to its operating position.

In my next post, I’ll cover the inside work you’ll need to complete to make sure your air conditioning unit is ready for the cooling season.

If you have questions about air conditioner maintenance, or would like the pros at Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating to perform your air conditioning maintenance for you, please give us a call at (617) 288-2911 anytime and we’ll schedule a visit. Don’t forget to like us Boston Standard Plumbing on Facebook!

Photo Credit: Chris Johnston Photography, via Flickr

Best Bet For A Great Deal? Trane, Lowe’s and Boston Standard!

This offer can allow you to replace your current low-efficiency heating and cooling systems with a highly reliable home heating and cooling solution from Trane. Depending upon which system and financing option you choose, you could collect a rebate from Trane worth between $100 and $1,250! You can also choose 0% financing with fixed monthly payments using a Lowe’s Consumer Credit Card.

Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating is an authorized Trane installer, so you can purchase your system through Lowe’s, get great financing options, and get the installation and service from Boston Standard Plumbing, the first name in heating and cooling in Boston!

If you’re not sure about what system you should choose, contact us for a consultation. We’ll examine your home and your current heating and cooling equipment, and let you know which Trane system will provide your home with the best performance.

You can also rely on Boston Standard Plumbing and Heating for reliable, cost-effective service and maintenance, to keep your Trane equipment working efficiently and trouble-free year-round. Our technicians are Trane-certified installers, so you’ll get help from knowledgeable, trained technicians, and fast, friendly service.

This is a great financing deal for homeowners, but it won’t last long. This special offer is only available through May 31, so you’ll want to act now to be sure you make the most of this awesome opportunity. For more information about qualifying Trane products, this financing offer or to consult with us to determine which Trane solution best meets your needs, contact us at Boston Standard Plumbing at (617) 288-2911 anytime. We’ll schedule an appointment and work with you to make sure you get the heating and cooling products and service you need.

Don’t forget to like Boston Standard Plumbing on Facebook!

Photo Credit: Trane

Back To Boilers: Stainless Steel Makes Sense

The basic operation of a boiler is simple. Boilers raise the temperature of water in a closed system. The heated water is then distributed around the residential space through pipes and radiators, and raises the temperature of the surrounding air.

There are a few major considerations that homeowners with boiler-based heat systems need to be aware of. One important factor is the composition of the heat exchanger. Heat exchangers in boiler systems are usually made either from aluminum or stainless steel.

The composition of the heat exchanger is important because the heat exchanger comes in contact with the water in the system. While the water in the system comes from the municipal water supply and is “clean” when it is added to the system, water has its own properties that can actually support and encourage corrosion inside a boiler system.

The pH level of the water is a good example. pH is a relative measure of the acidity of the water. Aluminum heat exchangers work best only in a narrow pH range. To ensure that the pH range is optimal, boiler water must be treated with special chemicals, and regular maintenance is required to maintain the proper pH and preserve the manufacturer’s warranty protection.

Stainless steel heat exchangers work optimally in a wide range of pH levels, so this actually reduces the amount of maintenance and care the boiler requires. With a stainless steel heat exchanger, a boiler can give years of trouble-free service using just clean water and propylene glycol, a common organic alcohol.

The flip side of the pH issue is corrosion. The reason boilers need this kind of maintenance is to avoid corrosion throughout the system. Aluminum heat exchangers work well in only a narrow pH range. Once the system water goes out of this range, the corrosion begins. Corrosion reduces the efficiency of the system and the lifespan of the boiler’s major components. You’ll spend more money on preventative maintenance with a system that uses an aluminum heat exchanger than you will on a system that uses a more efficient, more durable and less vulnerable stainless steel heat exchanger. You’ll also replace your boiler more often.

Another major consideration is that aluminum heat exchangers wear faster in high-intensity operations. If you run your boiler at or close to its peak flow, the aluminum heat exchanger will wear out faster than it would if you operate your boiler in a more controlled way. Stainless steel heat exchangers are much more tolerant of peak operation, and don’t tend to wear out from this kind of use. Based on how you use your boiler, this could be a significant consideration for you. An outdoor reset control can give you better control over your boiler operation, but you can also gain efficiency and lifespan by using a boiler with a stainless steel heat exchanger.

If you would like more information about stainless steel heat exchangers, boilers, outdoor reset controls or boiler maintenance, contact us at Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating at (617) 288-2911 anytime. We offer round-the-clock boiler and furnace repair. We’re also happy to consult with you on boiler replacement options. Don’t forget to like Boston Standard Plumbing on Facebook!

Photo Credit: Shandchem, via Flickr

High Efficiency IBC Boiler Can Make A Big Difference

One of the nicest features of this line of boilers is the stainless steel heat exchanger. Because the heat exchanger is made from stainless steel, you’ll get the long-life performance you’ve been looking for, as well as outstanding efficiency. Stainless steel offers significant protection against corrosion and deterioration, which means you replace the heat exchanger less often and enjoy high efficiency operation longer than you would with a traditional heat exchanger design.

Using a properly sized boiler can help you manage your heating costs. Unfortunately, most older boilers aren’t properly sized for the space they heat. An undersized boiler can’t keep up with your need for heat. An oversized boiler not only works harder and less efficiently, it also performs less consistently and negatively impacts the comfort of your home. IBC residential boilers come in a range of sizes, so you can increase efficiency and lower the cost of operation by installing the right boiler for your particular application.

Because IBC boilers offer such a high efficiency rating, they qualify for some very attractive rebates and incentives. Residential IBC boilers are rated with an AFUE of 95.7% or better and qualify for some rebates through the State of Massachusetts.

In addition, IBC’s residential boilers are all designed with built-in outdoor reset controls, so the boiler will operate at peak efficiency and give consistent performance, no matter what the temperature outside is doing. Outdoor reset controls help to maintain the efficient operation of your boiler based on the differential between the outside air temperature and the inside temperature of your home. The outdoor reset control acts like a fine-tuning adjustment to ensure that your boiler heats only to the temperature required to heat your home. The outdoor reset control prevents your boiler from heating to maximum temperature unnecessarily.

IBC residential boilers are wall-mounted units, so they offer a compact profile, multidirectional piping options for maximum installation flexibility, and quiet operation. Homeowners can expect reliable, long-life performance from an IBC boiler. IBC boilers can operate on either natural gas or propane, and can be vented directly or through an existing chimney. IBC boilers also have a limited lifetime warranty.

If you would like more information about IBC boilers, their stainless steel heat exchangers, or even outfitting your existing boiler with an outdoor reset control, contact us at Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating at (617) 288-2911 anytime. You can also like Boston Standard Plumbing on Facebook!

Photo Credit: IBC Technologies

Does Changing Your Furnace Filter Really Matter?

But what’s the harm in not changing your filter? Aside from the fact that the filter will become clogged with dust and debris, your furnace will also have to work harder to get air through the clogged filter. Your hard-working, high-efficiency furnace will become less efficient (which costs you more money) and over time, you can actually reduce the lifespan of important furnace components.

Furnace filters are sized to fit the furnace you use, so the first rule of thumb is to use the correct size filter for your furnace. You can usually purchase disposable furnace filters at your local home improvement store. Check your owner’s manual to determine the correct filter size for your unit, and buy enough filters each fall to get you through the heating season.

Changing the furnace filter (usually once per month) isn’t hard, but it is possible to install the filter backwards. Normally, filters are marked to indicate which side of the filter should face up/out, so be sure you know which direction you’re supposed to install the filter.

Don’t attempt to clean or re-use disposable filters. They aren’t meant to be cleaned, and there’s really no good way to get the accumulated dust and debris out of the filter. In addition, trying to dislodge the dust and debris mechanically can actually deposit the particles right back into the air. When you’re done with a filter, carefully place the used filter in a trash bag and send it on its way.

At the end of the heating season, place a new filter into your furnace. That way, when heating season starts up in the fall, your filter will be good to go. The same trick applies to your air conditioner. Change the filter at the end of the season so a dirty filter isn’t waiting for you the next time you want to use the unit.

If you just can’t remember to change your filter, write it on your calendar or send yourself a monthly email reminder. Google Calendar is a great (and free) way to remind yourself of this simple-yet-important task!

If you have any questions about your heating and cooling systems, or need help finding or changing your filter, contact Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating at (617) 288-2911 anytime. We can schedule an inspection right away and help you get your heating (and cooling) filter maintenance routine set up.
Don’t forget to Friend Boston Standard Plumbing on Facebook!

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Selling Your House? Invest In Your HVAC

How can you improve the chances of selling your home? Take a good look at your heating and cooling equipment. If your home currently has an oil-fired heating plant, consider converting it to natural gas. The lower cost of operating natural gas furnaces and boilers is overwhelmingly attractive right now. But buyers are looking at more than out-of-pocket costs to operate the equipment.

Natural gas and heating oil are about equal from an operational perspective, but oil-fired heating equipment carries an inherent risk of spilling. The seemingly ever-increasing cost of heating oil, onsite storage and the cost of extra insurance for oil-spill related accidents could be a showstopper for potential buyers. If you have the cash available, convert. You’ll also get extra points for being able to say your home has a brand new furnace or boiler.

Old air conditioning or no air conditioning provide two more reasons for buyers to look past your home. New, high-efficiency air conditioners can be very economical to operate and can also be more environmentally friendly than older models. Older model air conditioners use older refrigerants, which – depending upon what you need – could be in short supply. Buyers who are looking ahead may see high replacement costs in their future.

One economical alternative for old systems or homes that have no air conditioning may be a mini-split AC system. These systems are highly cost-effective, provide zone cooling and install quickly. They can also solve other problems like those posed by ductwork – or lack of it! Some homes – especially those with hot-water or steam heat – may not have ductwork to begin with. Other homes may have ductwork that’s been compromised by asbestos or other hazards. The mini-split alternative provides excellent cooling with none of the retrofit hassle of a whole-house air conditioning system.

If you’re thinking about selling your home and you’d like an assessment of your home’s heating and cooling equipment, please give us a call at Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating at (617) 288-2911. We’ll be happy to evaluate your current heating and cooling equipment or consult with you on an oil-to-gas conversion.

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Heating Season Can Bring Added Hazards

CO is a colorless, odorless gas. It can be a natural by-product of combustion and it will kill you, your family or anyone else it comes in contact with. CO is usually vented out of homes through the chimney or other direct-vent system. You’ll encounter it wherever you burn natural gas or other fuels (like wood, charcoal, kerosene or oil) for heat.

In the winter, some people attempt to use their gas stoves as an alternative, supplemental or even a primary heat source, especially during power outages. They rationalize that it should be safe, since the gas that flows from the burner is “completely” consumed, doesn’t require additional venting and shouldn’t pose a hazard to humans.

Nothing is farther from the truth. Gas stoves used as heat sources can certainly cause carbon monoxide build-ups in the home and should never be used for anything other than cooking. Your kitchen should also be equipped with ventilation equipment to prevent CO buildup from cooking. The Occupational Safety and Health Administration has determined that CO in concentrations as little as 100 parts per million is hazardous to human health. In other words, it doesn’t take much CO to put you and your family at risk.

New building codes now require CO sensors to operate in close proximity to unvented gas-burning appliances (like stoves), but these rules don’t apply to existing structures and existing gas-burning equipment.

A common misconception about CO poisoning is that it happens over a long period of time. Actually, CO poisoning can happen in a matter of minutes. Long-term exposure to CO can cause permanent heart and neurological problems. The very young and very old are also at increased risk of experiencing permanent physical damage from CO exposure.

You should recognize the symptoms of CO poisoning and make sure your home has working CO detectors at all times. The most common symptoms of CO poisoning are dizziness and nausea, shortness of breath, mild headaches, light-headedness, chest pain, confusion, agitation, visual changes, hallucinations and impaired judgment.

If you begin to experience any of these symptoms, or encounter someone else who is, it’s important to get that person outside immediately. If the symptoms improve with exposure to fresh air, do not return to the building. Instead, call 911 for medical assistance and have the affected person(s) medically evaluated at a hospital. Your local fire department will vent the affected space and attempt to locate the source of the CO leak.

If you have experienced a CO leak, have all of your fuel-burning appliances checked by a heating and cooling professional before returning them to service.

CO leaks in appliances can happen without warning, or they can be the result of deferred maintenance over a long period of time. The heating and cooling professionals at Boston Standard Plumbing & Heating can help you maintain your heating and cooling equipment and avoid CO mishaps. Contact us at (617) 288-2911 to schedule an inspection of your heating and cooling equipment today.

Photo Credit: Beige Alert, via Flickr